Chemical face peels

Chemical peeling is a medical procedure whereby the damaged surface layer of the skin is removed in a controlled manner in order to trigger regeneration and the formation of new, healthy tissue. Carefully selected acid solutions of varying strengths and depths of action are applied to the skin, depending on the problem being treated – acne, blemishes, wrinkles, scars or photodamage.

Depending on the depth of penetration and the concentration of active ingredients, chemical peels are classified as superficial, medium-depth, and deep. The deeper the peel, the more intense the regeneration – but also the longer the recovery time. The right choice is always made following an examination and assessment of the skin type, its needs, and the time of year.

Exfoliant for blemishes, acne and uneven skin tone

Chemical peels are chosen according to the skin problem. They can help with superficial pigmentation, acne scars, uneven texture and fine lines. Jessner and PRX-T33 have different compositions and protocols; you can view their characteristics in separate texts.

A superficial peel acts exclusively on the epidermis, which is the outermost layer of the skin. Acids are used in a concentration of approximately 20–40%, with the aim of removing dead cells, excess sebum and impurities, while simultaneously encouraging mild skin renewal.

This type of peel is ideal for:

• blemished and problematic skin,
• acne and post-inflammatory marks,
• enlarged pores,
• tired and greyish dull complexion.

It requires no special preparation and is often the first choice for people who have not previously had chemical peels. The results are visible quickly – the skin is fresher, more hydrated, and more radiant.

Due to the short recovery time (usually 1–2 days of mild redness or subtle peeling), it is also known as the “weekend peel”. It can also be performed during the summer months, with the mandatory and proper application of a high-factor sunscreen.

A medium-depth peel penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin and is used for more pronounced aesthetic and functional problems. It has a stronger effect on the skin structure, stimulates collagen synthesis, and improves skin tone and texture uniformity.

Recommended for:

• shallower wrinkles and lines,
• scars (including acne scars),
• hyperpigmentation and age spots,
• stretch marks,
• marked photodamage.

Skin after the treatment goes through a phase of redness and peeling, which is an expected part of the regeneration process. The result is visibly rejuvenated, tighter and more even skin.

Due to increased sensitivity to UV radiation, medium-depth chemical peels are performed exclusively during the period of weaker sunlight – from October to the end of March.

Deep peeling (TCA in higher concentrations) is intended for people with pronounced signs of ageing and significant skin damage. It acts in the deeper layers of the dermis and triggers powerful tissue regeneration.

Used for:

• deep wrinkles,
• marked skin laxity,
• severe photodamage,
• more serious scars.

This treatment significantly improves skin density and firmness, lifts tone and visibly smooths facial texture. The results are long-lasting and pronounced, but recovery can take up to two weeks, with strict adherence to post-procedure instructions.

AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) are fruit acids obtained naturally from fruit, milk, sugar beet, sugar cane and fermented dairy products. In dermatology and aesthetic medicine, they are used for their ability to gently yet effectively remove the superficial, damaged layer of the skin and stimulate its renewal.

Their action is based on dissolving and softening the keratin bonds between dead cells in the epidermis. This removes the layer with blemishes, minor scars and imperfections, while simultaneously stimulating the growth of new, healthier skin. In addition, AHA acids deeply cleanse the pores, improve skin texture and encourage collagen synthesis in the deeper layers, thereby contributing to a firmer and fresher appearance.

AHA acids – natural regeneration and controlled skin renewal

One of the most sought-after treatments is the glycolic acid peel. Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugar beet, sugar cane and unripe grapes, and its special advantage lies in its molecular size – it is the smallest among AHA acids. Precisely for this reason, it can penetrate deeper into the skin and act more intensively compared to other fruit acids.

Due to its structure and strength, glycolic acid is extremely effective for:

• hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone
• fine lines and the first signs of ageing
• greyish, tired, dull complexion

Depending on the concentration, it can be done:

• superficial glycolic peel (20–40%) – for refreshment, cleansing and mild regeneration
• stronger superficial glycolic peel (50–70%) – for more pronounced pigmentation, scars and fine lines

The choice of concentration is always determined after an examination, in accordance with the skin type and the condition being treated.

Lactic acid – hydration and revitalisation of dry skin

Lactic acid is particularly suitable for dry and dehydrated skin. It works more gently, yet provides intense hydration and improves skin elasticity. It helps the skin regain its firmness and tone, while simultaneously enhancing the texture and radiance of the complexion.

Thanks to its moisturising effect, lactic acid is a common choice for patients with more sensitive skin, as well as for those who want a gentle regeneration without pronounced peeling.

Salicylic acid belongs to BHA (beta-hydroxy) acids and represents one of the most effective choices for oily, seborrheic and problematic skin prone to acne. Unlike AHA acids, which act predominantly on the surface, salicylic acid is liposoluble – fat-soluble – which enables it to penetrate deeper into the pores and act directly on accumulated sebum.

Its effect is multifaceted: it deeply cleanses pores, reduces inflammation, regulates sebum production and prevents the formation of new spots and acne. In addition, it promotes gentle skin regeneration, helps to even out texture and contributes to a firmer and healthier appearance of the skin.

Salicylic peels can be used on their own, but also in carefully chosen combinations with other active ingredients, such as glycolic or mandelic acid, as well as retinol. These combinations allow for a more intensive effect – faster reduction of imperfections, better acne control and a visible improvement in skin quality.

The choice of acid concentration and combination is always determined individually, in accordance with the skin condition and the treatment goal, in order to achieve optimal and safe results.

Hollywood peel, also known as Jessner's peel (Jessner peel), is a superficial peel whose depth depends on the number of layers applied. It removes dead skin cells, reduces impurities in the pores and evens out the complexion. It is suitable for oily skin prone to acne and enlarged pores. In the case of very sensitive skin, a doctor will assess whether it is suitable.

Read more about this procedure in the text Hollywood (Jessner) peel.

TCA skin peel (trichloroacetic acid) is used when the goal is more visible skin rejuvenation and the alleviation of more pronounced imperfections. It is most commonly applied for acne scars, hyperpigmentation, age spots and photodamage, as well as fine lines – particularly in the lip and eye areas. In addition, it contributes to narrowing pores and smoothing the skin texture.

Depending on the concentration, a TCA peel can be medium-depth or deep. TCA is also the basis for PRX-T33 peel, which we write about in more detail in a separate text. Concentrations of 15%, 25% and 35% are most commonly used, depending on the skin condition and indication. For example, higher concentrations (30–35%) are applied to treat acne scars, while in certain more severe cases a significantly higher concentration may also be used, under strictly controlled medical conditions. People with lighter complexions are usually the best candidates for this type of peel due to a lower risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation.

For optimal and stable results, a course of 3 to 4 treatments spaced about a month apart is usually recommended. However, the first changes are visible after just the first peel – the skin becomes smoother and fresher, with reduced wrinkles and lightened blemishes. Strict photoprotection is mandatory for at least two months after the treatment, along with avoiding direct sun exposure. Precisely for this reason, the TCA peel is performed from autumn to the end of winter, when UV radiation is of lower intensity.

TCA CROSS (Chemical Reconstruction of Skin Scars) is a technique where trichloroacetic acid is not applied to the whole face, but is precisely applied to the base of each individual scar using a fine applicator. It is intended for narrow and deep acne scars, so-called ice pick scars, as well as narrow boxcar scars, the bases of which surface peels or lasers can hardly reach.

The acid triggers a controlled reaction within the scar itself, after which the skin in that area produces new collagen, so the base of the scar gradually rises. The surrounding skin remains untouched, which is why recovery is shorter than with a full-face peel: tiny scabs form on the treated areas and fall off in five to seven days.

For a visible result, several treatments spaced four to six weeks apart are usually required. The acid concentration and number of treatments are determined by a doctor after an examination. TCA CROSS is often combined with subcision and fractional CO2 laser within a comprehensive scar treatment plan, as each method acts on a different type of scar.

Like other TCA treatments, TCA CROSS is performed from October to the end of March, with mandatory sun protection during and after the series of treatments.

• Day 1: redness, tightness and a sensation of warmth.
• Day 2 and 3: The skin becomes darker and tighter, and then peeling begins.
• Days 4 to 7: flaking in small sheets. Do not remove the skin, let it come off by itself.
• Days 7 to 10: beneath is visible new, pink skin, which is sensitive to the sun for a further few weeks.

Following a superficial peel, recovery is shorter: one to three days of mild redness or flaking.